I left Sunday morning, June 19th – Fathers Day, for the airport, excited to be leaving the Dallas summer HEAT already breaking 100º degrees.    At the DFW airport, everything is so automated.   I stuck my passport into the self-check in.  That machine knew everything about me.  It asked if I wanted to upgrade my seat to First Class and I thought, hell why not.  I have never flown first class so I upgraded.  And wow, the service I got was wonderful: free drinks, hot nuts to snack.  They even brought a small warm wet towel to clean my hands – for lunch was being served.  Sitting in the back all those years I didn’t never know how special it was to be in a seat up front:  treated like a rich white woman – and it felt good.  I even got real eating utensils though the knife and fork were small – I guess so they couldn’t be used as weapons.

When we landed in México City, it felt kind of weird to be one of the first to get off the plane instead of being one of the last.   I made it to the immigration check ahead of all the other folks on the plane.  The immigration officer was nice and at first thought I was Mexican until I opened my mouth and spurted Spanish in my Texas twang.

Mary, my British lady friend that lives in México City was waiting for me.  She was easy to spot as I left customs because she towered over the Mexicans waiting for their arrivals.

We went to the taxi stand and the guy at the window was charging me too much, though I didn’t know, but Mary knew.   She told the guy it was too much to pay and he said no and she said yes.   Then the guy pretends to be looking at some book guide and told Mary she was correct.   As I left I told the guy, she is my bodyguard and he said a good one.

Driving through the city did not feel strange at all — in fact it felt like I never left for so long at all.  I was back on the streets I used to travel and I was with Mary, it seemed like I had just been gone a long weekend.

I made it to Mary’s apartment in Col. Vallejo, close to the Basilica, and we had Thai food for dinner.  And of course drank wine and talked.  That’s all we did was drink red wine and talk to Mary.  It was good catching up with an old friend.

Today, I get out and about and start another round of México City adventures.

Jzs

Everyone knows that this county is just obsessed with soccer.   I sit on my balcony and watch the park across the street, full of people walking their dogs, riding their bikes, jogging and kicking a soccer ball around.  Almost everyday I see this one kid running home from high school, not to watch TV but to get his soccer ball so he can kick it around!

Kids don’t play catch here with a football like I see in Dallas but they do kick the soccer ball to each other or use their heads to bounce the soccer ball back and fourth.

Though my park across the street, Alameda Santa Maria, is lovely, there are no large empty spaces to use as a playing field. The park has too many trees, bushes, fountains, a BIG Moorish Kiosk in the middle of the park and too lots of walkways:  really my park is a park to leisurely walk or sit and watch people.

I have often wondered, what a shame that my hood does not have a soccer field for the kids.  BOY was I wrong.

Almost weekly I pass by these two houses on Salvador Diaz Miron #’s 80 and 84.  They look like normal old houses but they are not, they are merely facades.  The houses that were once homes is now a soccer field, no kidding.  Today I passed by the houses and the door and windows were open and I could see inside:  No rooms or furniture, but a SOCCER FIELD!

The facades of the homes liked nice and I could only wonder about the homes in my area:  How many other homes in my neighborhood are not homes at all?  Oh well, Welcome to Mexico.

Picture of the houses I pass weekly – doors and windows were open today.

AND this is WHAT I saw – a soccer field!  LOL

Daniel Hernandez, presenter, Intersections, w/Ali Gadorki of Kumbia Queers founder

click here f0r a slide show of photos taken opening evening

Here is the information on Postópolis! DF that I picked up from their site:  Storefront for Art and Architecture, in partnership with Museo Experimental El Eco, Tomo and Domus Magazine, is hosting the third edition of Postopolis!, a public five-day session of near-continuous conversation curated by some of the world’s most prominent bloggers from the fields of architecture, art, urbanism, landscape, music and design. Ten world-renowned bloggers from Los Angeles, New York, Turin, Barcelona, London and elsewhere have come to one location, Mexico City, to host a series of discussions, interviews, slideshows, presentations, films and panels fusing the informal and interdisciplinary approach of the architecture blogosphere with rare face-to-face interaction.

Postópolis! DF meets in the magnificent courtyard of Museo Experimental El Eco, designed by Matthias Goeritz, to conduct back-to-back interviews of some of Mexico City’s most influential thinkers and practitioners – including architects, city planners, artists and urban theorists but also military historians, filmmakers, photographers, activists and musicians.

If you are in México City attend, you will not be disappointed.  AND if you can’t be in México City, follow the live stream on Postópolish! DF beginning at 4:00 PM CT.

Location

Museo Experimental El Eco

Sullivan 43, Col. San Rafael, CP 09470 Mexico City,

Tel. 5535 51 86

www.eleco.unam.mx

Below is a short video I shot with first blog presenter Daniel Hernandez of Intersections.

The other day I started a FaceBook page titled, “Surviving in México City.”  I have posted some items about living in the Big Enchilada but what was popular was the posting about the most dangerous thing in Mexico City is not the crime, kidnappings or population but SIDEWALKS.

The sidewalks are not only uneven and/or cracked where ones heels could get lodged in, but also some sidewalks have big holes, some evening looking like a Guatemalan sinkhole.

Some people agreed saying they had sprained an ankle, broken an arm or falling in a hole while carrying groceries.    Yep, you can walk but don’t look at your friend in the eye or even read a note, you do have to walk and look down, always. This hole has been like this, without a barrier or warning for MONTHS!

I didn’t have to walk far or long to get these pictures for this post:  I only walked one block in my neighborhood.   As you can see, I am serious about watching where you walk and if it’s dark be even more careful.

Careful because you may be one of the disappeared and it has nothing to do with the drug cartel.

Stepping off the curb can be dangerous too.  Again no warnings, no barriers.

and here is the UPDATE: I also posted pictures and a comment to my other FaceBook site, Col. Santa Maria la Ribera about the dangerous hole in the sidewalk, see above photo.  Well I am sure that someone that lives in my neighborhood read this and took action.  Because after MONTHS of the hole just being there, it now has been covered with a piece of lumber and with a primitive barrier – but a barrier that works.  YEA.

Click pics above to see a slide show of Mexico City sidewalks

El Museo Universitario del Chopo, known as El Chopo

The history of El Museo Universitario del Chopo, known as El Chopo, is an interesting one.   The building, which holds the museum, was built in 1902 for the Exhibition of Industrial Art of Düsselorf in Germany.

That same year the building was transported by sea to the city of Veracruz, México and then by railroad to Col. Santa María la Ribera, near the old train terminal of Buenavista in México City.  The old train station is gone, but today the Buenavista terminal is the stop for México City’s Metro, MetroBus stop and the Ferrocarril Suburbano de la Zona Metropolitana del Valle de México which is a suburban railway that leads to several state of México cities.

El Chopo had been closed for a couple of years for remodeling and it was time for the unveiling: and I was there.  The Chopo Museum, in Col. Santa Maria la Ribera, my hood finally opened the evening of May 19, 2010.   El Chopo is such a wonderful building and museum; only blocks away from my home.

I had heard a lot about the building the whole time I have been living in Col. Santa Maria la Ribera, but had not been into the spectacular place so I was excited about stepping foot in the building.

I went to the opening with my landlady Mely.  Mely, who is almost 70 years of age, grew up with El Chopo when it was known as the Natural History Museum and later abandoned when the museum moved.  When El Chopo was later rescued by UNAM and inaugurated on November 25^th 1975 as the “Museo Universitario del Chopo,” the  ‘El Chopo’ University Museum, Mely was there.  Mely even worked at the museum for a time, so I thought going to the opening with her would be a wonderful thing to do:  NOT!

The moment we walked into the Chopo, Mely hated it.  She hated everything about the remodeled Chopo: the inside structure that was built to expand the exhibit space, she even hated the lighting inside El Chopo.

Mely is one that gets around and knows many people and every time someone would stop to speak to her, she would start her, I HATE IT ….  Every time she spoke it was like she was running finger nails on a blackboard.  We hadn’t been in El Chopo long and only made it half way through the first floor exhibit area when she turns around and says, “let’s leave.”  I thought WHAT?  I didn’t know the old Chopo and what I was seeing I most appreciating.

I was looking at this architectural wonder created by Enrique Norten, the architect of the new Museo del Chopo, and she wanted to leave.  I said no, I am not leaving.  I am glad Mely had invited a neighbor friend of hers to go too, so while they went in one direction I stepped backwards in the other direction and got lost into the crowd.  Something I learned from watching The Three Stooges.

It wasn’t long before I left Mely and her neighbor and I ran into people I knew, so we walked the whole museum, meeting new people: painters, photographers, etc.  It was GREAT. Even made it to an after party and dinner too.

click photo above for slide show of opening reception – a self-portrait

El Chopo Museum is located in Col. Santa Maria la Ribera, Dr. Enrique González Martínez no. 10. Taking the MetroBus get off at the Chopo stop; walk one block.  Taking the Metro, get off at the Buenavista stop and walk three blocks SW.  Can’t miss this wonderful cathedral-like building and a must stop and see when in Col. Santa Maria la Ribera – I mean México City.

But one name that grabbed my attention was that of Isadora Duncan.  I thought it strange that an American name, the tomb marker says Duncan was born in San Francisco, was on one of the crypts so I took pictures.

As you can see from the link, that Isadora’s history is interesting.  In fact most of the information about Isadora is also sitting near the crypt but in Spanish.  But the odd thing about Isadora is that all the information is that she died in a freak accident in Nice France and is buried in the Père Lachaise Cemetery, Paris France and not in Mexico City at all – strange.

So just who is buried in this crypt and why use Isadora Duncan’s name.  In doing some research I did find in The Mex Files, that seems to think, guess, that buried in this crypt,  … “is that it’s a bishop or mother superior buried anonymously during the Cristero War under the name of the well known atheist and all-round rabble-rousing dancer.”

Note:  Today, March 31, 2009, I found this on LonelyPlanet.com – “I’ve been afforded the extraordinary opportunity to spend some hours studying the original burial records at the church/cemetery, and, from what I’ve learned, the space behind the part of the wall marked “Isadora Duncan” is empty (or, at best, contains a “John Doe“). Like several other spots in the wall, the one with her name was purchased by an admirer, following her death . . . as a tribute.”

Without you having to go to the comments section I have posted a reply I received from The Mex Files author and he writes:

Thanks for the “shout out” Jesus. I looked up the old Lonely Planet posting, and — while it doesn’t show the name of the poster who wrote “I’ve been afforded the extraordinary opportunity …”, I know who it is. The writing style, and the claims are unmistakably that of a notorious poster who often claimed to have done extensive research that just wasn’t true, and who had a habit of contradicting, and/or “one-upping” other people’s research.

I don’t know if my supposition (that there is a cleric or nun buried in the tomb) is correct by any means — and have always said it’s a guess, but the idea that the tomb was “purchased by an admirer, following her death . . . as a tribute” makes no sense. There were no recorded burials in San Fernando after 1885, and no tomb sales either. The only sure thing is that Isadora Duncan, who died when her scarf got tangled in the wheel of a moving Amlicar and broke her neck, was buried in Pere Lechaise and never was in Mexico during her live (or afterwards).

I got up early in my neighborhood in Col. Santa Maria la Ribera.  As I walked to a Catholic Church that is three blocks away I ran into a guy dressed as Jesus walking along side his Apostles – no kidding.

Then I ran into a religious procession, people holding and waving palms and they marched and sang on their way to the church.  Once at the church in my hood, I bought several religious palm items for my home: see photo below.

Then I went to the Zocalo, to go to the Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana de la Asunción de María) the largest and oldest cathedral in the Americas and seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Mexico. While at the Cathedral I happened to get there in time to witness the Archbishop of Mexico City, Cardinal Norberto Rivera Carrera, bless the crowd of Palm Sunday worshipers.

Click photo below for a slide show of my Palm Sunday in Mexico City 2010

These palm pieces I hung over my door entrance

Here is a short 3.5 minute video that I did too

I spoke to Fabiola, a charming young lady.  Turns out she had just started selling her works in La Zona Rosa. Fabiola said it was by chance they were setting up on Friday, because the government only lets them sell on Saturday’s and Sunday’s – not sure if you can find Fabiola every Friday:  but it is a safe bet you will on Saturday and Sunday afternoons she said.

I most like the first piece titled  ¡ y Siempre Llegaron!!!, this is because if you have ever seen a real Dead of the Dead altar you will know that Fabiola has the detail to the altar down 100%, from the paper cut outs, to the bread of the dead, all exact.  I love the color too, on both of them. The second piece I like the title, “la conquista,” the conquest, the meeting of the Spaniards and the Aztecs.  Though I know the history of the battles between the Aztecs and the Spaniards, it is fun and creative to see such a historical event as a Day of the Dead illustration.

I most enjoyed my conversation with Fabiola and the one thing I most admired about her, was her enthusiasm as she spoke about her art.  When so many young Mexican artist want to get away from their heritage, Fabiola embraces it.

I got Fabiola’s e-mail and I gave her mine, asking  that she please stay in touch, because I am sure the readers of this blog would like to keep up with her progress.  I know I do -  and I also wish to continue buying her creative works:  I couldn’t help myself — I already bought the two prints pictured below – LOVE THEM.

¡ y Siempre Llegaron!!!

la conquista

Here is a picture of my lamp.  Click the picture for a slide show view of my new lamp in my home:

At Arena Coliseo in El Centro Historico I ran into this teenage boy selling clay Lucha Libre wrestler dolls he had made.  They were such detailed and thought this guy had put a lot of work into each one of the finger sized sculptures.  As I arrived at the kids stand, there was a man trying to bring the prize down on the items which were only $5.00 pesos each, which is like 40 cents.  I couldn’t believe someone would try to bring down the prize of something that was already cheap.  I stood there waiting for the old man and his son to leave – they finally did.  I looked at the tiny Lucha Libre figures and loved them.  They young man said, please buy one or two, “I have not sold anything all day.”  Well I bought them all!    Below are pics of my purchase.

Then while at the Mercado Merced I saw this strange store.  Strange is in how this store was advertising the products they are selling:  Just stick what you are selling on the outside of the building.  No need to walk into the store to look around – just stand outside!  LOL.

And then the Olimpia Gym next to Garibaldi Plaza, the plaza where all the Mariachis are in Centro Historico.  I thought this was an abandoned building because the outside looked so bad and it was always locked up as I walked by during the afternoons.  One evening like 10:30 PM I passed by the place and it was open!  The iron gates were pulled up and I could hear the clings of weight lifting.  Tough I didn’t walk up the stairs, I took these pics, something I found to be MexiKitsch.  Yea a word I made up – Mexican Kitsch:  LOL.

I love taking walks in Mexico City  -  you don’t need a television.